Highlights from the Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture Fashion Shows

Another couture fashion week has officially ended in Paris. Designers presented their Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture collections, and there were so many breathtaking dresses we hope to see gracing the red carpet this awards season.

One of the highlights was Simone Rocha’s collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier, marking the beloved London Fashion Week designer’s first step into couture. While Chanel, Valentino and Fendi were also creating unforgettable collections, John Galliano’s Maison Margiela fashion show looked set to go down in fashion history.

Here’s what you need to know about the Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture Fashion Shows…


The first thing viewers probably noticed at the Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2024 show wasn’t Virginie Viard’s latest designs or Margaret Qualley on the runway; hanging above the circular podium were huge double C buttons.

According to show notes, the button has long been an important motif for the French luxury house, not only as a design element that allows for freedom of movement, but also as a decorative flourish that can be repeated over and over again.

The main theme of the haute couture season so far has been contrast; As is evident with the blending of “old world” and “new world” at Schiaparelli, and the juxtaposition of harsh tweed and ethereal tulle at Chanel. It starts as a single layer that extends from the waist to the skirt layer, then transforms into a more defiant flow that undulates outward from the bottom. Viard plays with these visual illusions by layering sheer tulle trousers over opaque white tights, pretending to cover them, and adding a translucent black panel under the hem of the miniskirt to evoke the appearance of a shadow.

Maison Margiela

John Galliano’s couture collection for Maison Margiela was a quirky and extravagant spectacle that celebrated the female form and introduced brand new sartorial techniques. Actress Gwendoline Christie was also seen hitting the runway in a sheer, corseted dress. The show notes described the collection’s inspiration as “a walk into the dark side of Paris… the nightly festivities during a moonlit trip along the River Seine, what lies beneath the traces of clothing and what lies behind the dimly lit windows of their homes…”


“This collection is about simplicity and purity, about more with less meaning; about sincerity, about reducing to an essence, finding a freedom and invention in that… It is a decision, a choice; not to reduce, but to focus, to expand the possibilities.” Pieter Mulier adds that all garments contain a “single thread” derived from merino wool, which was then reinvented by fabric technicians over a period of more than a year.


Kim Jones looked to the archives for inspiration for her Fendi couture collection and was inspired by Karl Lagerfeld’s futuristic designs during his time as artistic director at the Italian fashion house. The designer also praised the “superior skills” of the craftsmen working in Fendi workshops, from embroiderers to tailors, pattern cutters, leather workers and seamstresses.

Jean Paul Gaultier by Simone Rocha

When it was announced that Simone Rocha would join the prestigious group of designers who guest designed Jean Paul Gaultier’s Haute Couture collections; fans were excited to see how he would combine the two worlds. Not because he doesn’t have what it takes (he’s proven his talent time and time again) but because it’s always hard to imagine two houses being in one. For example, one of the biggest differences between designers is their approach to shapes… While Rocha gravitated towards volume and gravity-defying layers, Gaultier always emphasized the body in a more sensual way by turning to corsets and skin-hugging silhouettes. But both certainly valued vintage opulence and power in unabashed femininity, which were dominant themes in the Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture collection that Rocha released.

Rocha’s creativity and consistency were on full display as he imagined clever ways to combine ideas. Like Gaultier’s striped jumpsuit, which is actually made up of loosely sewn stripes that pay tribute to his nautical-inspired hits. Or the iconic cone busts that turn into horns, dixie cup hats adorned with bows and embroidery, and nods to corsets with unfastened buckles.


Simon Porte Jacquemus’s Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture Fashion Show “Les Sculptures” draws on expertise and pays homage to the late Swiss artist Alberto Giacometti. The collection reflected Jacquemus’ vision of contemporary quiet luxury with unconventional tailoring and skewed silhouettes. Gigi Hadid opened the show and signaled what was to come; followed by creative flared silhouettes with boat necks.

Christian Dior

For haute couture in spring 2024, Maria Grazia Chiuri reflected on girlhood, femininity and the expectations of the fashion industry. From the moment the first model walked on the catwalk, the designer seemed to question the basic pieces of women’s modern wardrobe and transform them into high fashion with couture embellishments.


At the runway show for Valentino’s spring 2024 couture collection called “Le Salon,” models glided down purple spiral staircases in a visual feast of colorful dresses, suits and suits for all genders at the brand’s Place Vendôme atelier. Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli has been known to focus on an array of bright hues from time to time; took this concept really seriously for this collection. Every color of the rainbow was illuminated and refracted through the couture prism he created.


Elsa Schiaparelli had several special interests: Greek mythology, ancient religious ceremonies, psychic phenomena. Another thing he was fascinated by was astrology, which flowed like a river through the fashion house he founded. For Schiaparelli’s spring 2024 haute couture show, creative director Daniel Roseberry used the stars as the starting point for the collection; Of course, it was fitting for a brand whose founder had studied the skies in his childhood with his uncle, astronomer Giovanni Schiaparelli.

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